THE GRAPE WALL OF CHINA: BY DESIGN – HOW AN INTERIOR DECOR SHOP DOUBLES AS A SUPERB WINE BAR @ POP-UP BEIJING 葡萄围城:BY DESIGN – 当一家室内设计精品店成为品质一流的葡萄酒吧 @ POP-UP BEIJING

“Language is wine upon the lips. “

“语言如同唇上美酒。“

Virginia Woolf


POP-UP 'P' 300x300

160807 POP-UP BEIJING - WORLD BAIJIU DAY POPUP GOODWORKS TEA COFFEE TAIZI 12

Since 2007, ‘Grape Wall of China’ has covered the China wine scene, thanks to the indomitable Jim Boyce, also the voice behind ‘World Baijiu Day’ and ‘Beijing Boyce.’ Read what Mr. Boyce has to say about our wine bar below…

自2007年起,’葡萄围城’就已经是中国国内最权威的葡萄酒评论媒体之一,由衷感谢Jim Boyce本人、世界白酒日以及Beijing Boyce网站的支持。下面我们为您引荐、翻译了他给POP-UP BEIJING酒吧的最新评论……


POP-UP 'P' 300x300

HOW AN INTERIOR DECOR SHOP DOUBLES AS A SUPERB WINE BAR

pop-up-beijing-maovember-party-with-yealands-taizi-baijiu-e1483674940261

By Jim Boyce | Beer, cocktail and spirits fans face far better options than their grape-loving brethren in Beijing, whose hopes are raised every time a slew of wine bars opens and dashed when the same spots close or water down their aspirations. Here’s hoping the newest wave, including Buona Bocca, Fu, Vesuvio and Vin Vino, will improve the situation. But the most inspiring place of the past year wasn’t even focused on wine.

The core business of POP-UP BEIJING is interior decor. This long narrow venue stocks everything from Chinese antiques and reproductions to one-of-a-kind works by local artists to China-centric souvenirs with just the right kitsch factor. It’s a Santa’s workshop of items that draws a steady stream of newbies and loyal customers.

POP-UP BEIJING also sells a shitload of good wine.

About 18 months ago, POP-UP BEIJING opened a tiny bar on its lower level. There was just enough room for six stools, plus a few tables for two. The menu included a dozen wines picked by co-owner Glenn Schuitman, who was once global communications manager for the winery Montana in New Zealand, his home country, and knows a good drop.

Three months ago, POP-UP BEIJING took things up a notch. It knocked a hole in its west wall and expanded into a large room. In contrast to the artful clutter of the original space, the new one is more like an art gallery with wing chairs and long tables.

POP-UP BEIJING added another bar there.

So what makes this place special?

torres-china-silver-heights-shanxi-the-last-warrior-red-white-blend-wine-at-pop-up-beijing

Christmas dinner at POP-UP BEIJING.

Take Christmas Day. A steady stream of imbibers arrived at the new bar to enjoy a glass or two for the holidays. Two customers relaxed in wing chairs and sipped wine. Eight people, including me, enjoyed Christmas dinner at a long table, while five others at a second table stuck to a liquid meal. And a group at the original bar drank wine and watched Home Alone, which might go against the grain of a place where the Tuesday night movies focus on 1950s and 1960s classics, but was done in the spirit of the day.

Right now snobs will be saying an interior decor shop with a mishmash of events is hardly the place to promote the glories of wine. They’re wrong. Frankly, the snobs have failed us. They support a scene that doubles as a safe space for them but is intimidating and / or boring for most everyone else. One of their favorite places once sat a mere 50 meters from POP-UP BEIJING: Bar Veloce, spin-off of the hip New York City venue, was supposedly destined to take our fair city to new heights just a few years ago. Tone-deaf to consumer desires, it lasted less than a year and is now the very popular Jing-A Taproom.

le-ponty-tasting-with-helene-ponty-glenn-schuitmann-and-evita-wong-at-pop-up-beijing

Choosing new wines for the list at the original POP-UP BEIJING bar.

What makes POP-UP BEIJING work is flexibility. It doesn’t shove wine in your face—unless you want it to. Grab a bottle, head for the wing chairs or tables, and chat. Or wander about the shop with your wine and look at the eye candy. Or enjoy a glass while taking a book-making or other class, watching a Tuesday night movie, or attending a one-off event like the annual Christmas carols session.

Should you want more info, you can check the tasting notes or ask the POP-UP BEIJING team: co-owner Schuitman is a friendly and diplomatic guy backed by an efficient staff. All of this flexibility leads to a sense of ease and enjoyment far too often lost in those bars trying to be serious.

le-ponty-tasting-with-helene-ponty-glenn-schuitmann-and-evita-wong-at-pop-up-beijing-4

POP-UP BEIJING has 17 wines on the menu, with more soon to come.

Snobs will also point to the menu’s size and scope, and scoff at the idea of promoting wine with just 17 options from a handful of nations. But there is merit to having a small quality menu versus a large half-ass one. I’ve tried most POP-UP BEIJING wines and, even if some are not my style, the quality is good. True, if someone likes that Pinot Blanc from Germany and wants to try another label, they won’t find it at POP-UP BEIJING. But to me it’s more important that someone enjoyed this grape, and wants to explore it further, than this place have an exhaustive portfolio.

If success is people drinking and enjoying good wine at fair prices, POP-UP BEIJING is doing a good job. And doing it regularly given the volume poured not just to walk-in customers but to guests at movie nights and classes and one-off events like national day gatherings.

Of course, no place is perfect. Because the main business is interior decor, the staff might not have the luxury to hang out and chat wine when antique and chandelier sales get heavy. And those seeking old vintages or pricey labels will be disappointed. Then there’s price: some might balk at paying rmb60 for a glass of wine—or even rmb40 during the daily happy hours from 5 PM to 7 PM. Fair enough. But on the flip side, the bottles are as equally inexpensive, starting at just rmb180. It almost feels like those prices were chosen to encourage customers to bring a friend and share a bottle or two.

pop-up-beijing-new-room

The new bar in the foreground and the original one in back.


POP-UP 'P' 300x300

当一家室内设计精品店成为品质一流的葡萄酒吧

pop-up-beijing-maovember-party-with-yealands-taizi-baijiu-e1483674940261

Jim Boyce 作 | 在北京城,无论你是啤酒爱好者,或者烈酒控,亦或是鸡尾酒的忠实粉丝,选择一家好的酒吧来消遣都不是一件难事 – 不过可苦了这些爱好葡萄酒的同胞们,葡萄酒吧在城里开开关关,却始终没有哪一家能够“名垂青史”。最新上榜的几家好店让大家仍然保持着信心 – 名列如下:Buona Bocca、Fu、Vesuvio和万久。然而,在过去一年之中,最让我本人心驰神往的“葡萄酒圣地” ,酒吧却并不是它的招牌生意。

POP-UP BEIJING是一家室内设计精品店。这家块狭长的空间里聚集了来自东西方的古董珍宝、当地艺术家的独门之作和许许多多不落俗套的特色小件。这里就像是圣诞老人的神奇小屋 – 既让游客们心驰神往,也吸引着无数的“老北京客”们念念不忘。

POP-UP BEIJING精选了一系列让人魂牵梦绕的葡萄美酒。

大约18个月之前,POP-UP BEIJING在它的西侧区域悄悄开放了一个小小的酒吧。小到什么程度?约莫着只能放下一张六人桌和少数几个双人位。酒单也是极其精简有致 – 所有在列的佳酿都由合伙人之一:苏格林先生亲自品尝甄选,这位拥有着过人经历、身经百炼的新西兰绅士曾任新西兰蒙大拿酒庄的全球公关经理,葡萄酒对他来说好似一位认识多年的老朋友。

三个月之前,POP-UP BEIJING发生了翻天覆地的变化。一夜之间,西侧墙壁上凿出来的一扇大门带我们通向了一个不同以往的新世界。尽管保留了原本店铺的艺术气质,但这个崭新的空间更像是一个空旷雪白的画廊,只有简单的条凳和长桌。这一切都让它充满着无限的可能。

这个新空间里的一隅,安置着一个新吧台。

是什么让这个地方如此的特别呢?

torres-china-silver-heights-shanxi-the-last-warrior-red-white-blend-wine-at-pop-up-beijing

POP-UP BEIJING的圣诞晚宴。

就拿圣诞节当天来说吧。即便是淡季,早在下午六七点,西翼区的吧台上已经聚集了几位常来的熟客。两位顾客坐在稍远的古董沙发上闲聊私语,慢呷红酒。包括我自己的另外八个好朋友们落座主桌,开始享受一场圣诞节盛筵。老空间里的小酒吧区也聚集了一群电影爱好者,大家一面欣赏着经典的圣诞影片《小鬼当家》,一面啜饮佳酿 – 即便当晚的放映并不是五六十年代经典主题,在这个一年一度的节庆夜晚,大家仍然享受着彼此和佳酿的陪伴。

这时候,好多“大评论家”们就会忍不住发表观点:这样一个内设精品店和宴会场地怎么能够容纳葡萄酒的高尚和优雅呢?然而他们却真真的大错特错了。也许他们眼中的“葡萄酒圣地”用这样、那样的条条框框装裱的无懈可击,然而对于大多数人来说,这样的地方只会让人觉得畏惧和厌烦。在这附近最经典的例子就是Bar Veloce,距离POP-UP BEIJING还不到50米的距离,一个从纽约城走进北京的高端洋品牌,大刀阔斧地试图改变北京城的葡萄酒界,创造一副翻天覆地的惊涛骇浪 – 然而,在开业还不到一年的时间里,就辜负了所有人的期待而关门大吉,现在被啤酒坊京A占据了原先的位置。

le-ponty-tasting-with-helene-ponty-glenn-schuitmann-and-evita-wong-at-pop-up-beijing

在POP-UP BEIJING的老酒吧甄选新酒。

POP-UP BEIJING的成功在于它的亲善和灵活。在这里,没有人会强迫你去了解葡萄酒 – 找个位置随便坐下,大家一起聊聊天、逛逛店,到了兴头上喝一杯 – 一切都是自然而然的事。无论是安安静静地读个书,还是欣赏经典老电影,或者恰巧碰上了哪个宴会活动 – 葡萄酒都能够自然而然地成为整个过程的一部分。

如果你对哪一款葡萄酒特别感兴趣,POP-UP BEIJING的团队都能够游刃有余地跟你聊上几句:合伙人苏格林是一个风趣可爱的老板,后面有着一个坚实的团队做支撑。所有的这一切都让葡萄酒回归到它最自然、原本的初衷 – 平易近人而又风味优雅。

le-ponty-tasting-with-helene-ponty-glenn-schuitmann-and-evita-wong-at-pop-up-beijing-4

POP-UP BEIJING目前有17款葡萄酒在列,更多新酒即将驻店。

批评家们还会这样说 – 作为一个葡萄酒吧,怎么能够只有17种葡萄酒可供选择呢?然而在我看来,拥有一个品质优良、可圈可点的精选酒单要比拿出一本鸿篇巨制却乏味平庸的酒单要重要得多。我本人品尝过POP-UP BEIJING的绝大部分葡萄酒,诚实地讲,其中很多并不是我个人的爱好,但这里的每一款酒都代表着自己独特的风格,并且拥有着及其相称的优秀品质。没错,如果一个德国白品诺的爱好者想要在POP-UP BEIJING找到喝到第二款同样品种的葡萄酒,不好意思,这里的确没有。但对于我自己来说,这个地方给人带来的灵感和爱好才是让它如此特别的重要原因 – POP-UP BEIJING是一个让你真正开始了解、探寻并最终热爱葡萄酒的地方。

将葡萄酒融入生活、让每个顾客都有机会尝到好酒 – 这就是POP-UP BEIJING最让人敬佩的地方。爱在这里喝酒的并不仅仅是寻香而来的酒客,更有许许多多的老电影发烧友、手工坊爱好者和社交达人们。

当然,没有哪个地方是完美的。POP-UP BEIJING最主要的生意仍然是家居零售,这里的店员也许没有无限制的时间和你畅谈美酒,在这里你也找不到那些经典的奢侈老牌。然而酒单上的优质葡萄酒每杯仅为60元,如果赶上每天下午5-7时的欢乐时光,单杯仅售40元。整瓶价格180元起 – 带上一两个朋友,在这个充满着艺术气息和和缓音乐的舒适环境里,一晚上很快就过去了……

pop-up-beijing-new-room

新酒吧坐落于西翼一隅,与老酒吧交相辉映。


POP-UP 'P' 300x300

grape-wall-of-china-logo-e1410117355963

Check out ‘The Grape Wall of China’ website (www.grapewallofchina.com) for more informations about wine in China.

欢迎通过‘葡萄围城’博客网站(www.grapewallofchina.com)来获取关于中国葡萄酒的更多信息。


POP-UP 'P' 300x300

SCAN BELOW TO FOLLOW US ON WECHAT FOR REGULAR UPDATES ON ALL ACTIVITIES:

扫描下方二维码关注我们的微信公众账号获取更多活动信息:

POP-UP BEIJING Weixin QR Code